Newsletters
Food
Review by Meredith Schneider
- I tried custard from Culver's, Andy's, and Freddy's to see which chain has the best.
- Culver's custard was buttery, and Freddy's frozen treat had a thinner consistency.
- Andy's frozen custard had the best flavor and texture of the bunch.
Sign up to get the inside scoop on today’s biggest stories in markets, tech, and business — delivered daily. Read preview
Thanks for signing up! Go to newsletter preferences
Thanks for signing up!
Access your favorite topics in a personalized feed while you're on the go.
Advertisement
Though several sources have traced the origins of frozen custard to Coney Island, New York, it's now widely considered to be a staple Midwest delicacy.
Unlike standard ice cream, frozen custard is made with egg yolks, which add density and give it a creamier texture. States such as Wisconsin and Missouri have been doing the delicious, thick, frozen dessert justice for decades.
But where to get the best custard is a divisive topic in the Midwest. As a Missourian, I set aside my biases and put the popular chains Andy's, Freddy's, and Culver's to the test.
To ring in the end of summer, I ordered cherry concretes at each chain. Here's how they stacked up.
Advertisement
First, I ordered custard from Culver’s.
Culver's opened in Wisconsin in the 1980s and has since expanded across the US. Though it's probably best known for its ButterBurgers, frozen custard is also a fan-favorite menu item.
As per usual, my local Culver's was packed — I probably should've planned ahead, knowing it was a holiday weekend. Nevertheless, I patiently waited for my turn at the drive-thru.
Culver's offers both wild and whole cherries as toppings for its Concrete Mixers (custard blended with toppings). Since I also wanted to taste the flavor of the vanilla custard on its own, I opted for whole cherries.
My medium Concrete Mixer was 13.4 ounces for $6.47, or about $0.48 an ounce.
Advertisement
The frozen treat tasted buttery.
The custard itself was buttery. I expected this from the frozen treat, but it stood out from the other options.
It was incredibly creamy, and I could pick out the distinct flavors of the cherry pieces and vanilla custard, which I liked.
Advertisement
Then, I grabbed dessert at Freddy’s.
Though it started farther south — in Wichita, Kansas — Freddy's is pretty similar to Culver's. It offers burgers, fries, and plenty of custard at locations across the US.
The drive-thru was pretty tame when I pulled up, so I easily ordered my cherry concrete.
A 12-ounce regular size cost $5.64, or about $0.47 an ounce.
Advertisement
This custard wasn't as thick as its competitors.
The concrete from Freddy's was delicious, but it seemed as if it had more cherry juice than actual cherries in it — this is what I imagine the wild-cherry option at Culver's may be closer to.
The consistency of the custard was also less thick, more along the lines of soft-serve ice cream.
But even though the dessert was thinner and slightly smaller in size, it was still really filling.
Advertisement
Andy's was my last stop of the night.
Andy's Frozen Custard was founded in Osage Beach, Missouri, in 1986. Unlike Culver's and Freddy's, Andy's serves custard only, and it has expanded more modestly across the US.
I'm from Kansas City, so the Missouri chain has always had a special place in my heart. And I'm not the only one. The drive-thru line at my local Andy's usually wraps around the building and down the block.
A medium one-topping concrete is 14.5 ounces and cost me $7.12, which works out to about $0.49 an ounce.
Advertisement
As usual, Andy's was worth the wait.
The workers took care to add a good amount of cherry topping to my concrete, and the custard itself had a hint of buttery decadence and a splash of sweetness. It's the perfect combination for a rich frozen treat.
I like that the flavor of the custard is a little more neutral than Culver's. I think it helps accommodate the array of add-ins.
Advertisement
Andy’s reigned supreme.
If you're looking to try authentic frozen custard, Andy's is the place to do it.
The thick, creamy vanilla custard pairs well with a number of toppings, and its density makes it more like a meal than a dessert. I'm certainly full after savoring a whole concrete.
Though Culver's and Freddy's are both delicious, Andy's also offers a little more variety when it comes to toppings and flavors.
Correction: September 5, 2024 — An earlier version of this story miscalculated the unit prices of the cherry concretes. Culver's is $0.48 an ounce, Freddy's is $0.47 an ounce, and Andy's is $0.49 an ounce.
Read next
Advertisement
